Shaping: Surface Tension and Technique

Why shaping matters

ALL THE BREADMAKING STEPS UP TO THIS point—mixing, strengthening, bulk fermentation, and preshaping—have been performed, in part, to strengthen the dough to facilitate shaping. The dough needs to have an inherent level of gluten development to be able to trap the gaseous by-products of fermentation. Through shaping, we leverage this development to mostly fix the dough into a fi

There's a correlation between how fermented the dough is and how gently you must handle it. If the dough is very well fermented at shaping time, it is likely in a more delicate state, requiring gentle handling to prevent excessive degassing.

The key principles

Finally, I like to think of shaping as a point when your creativity can run free. If you take two different bakers and have them work the same dough, the result will likely be bread with drastically different forms and even different eating qualities.

Shape with even tension: Tension is created when you drag the dough against the work surface as you shape it. The dough will slightly stick to the surface and pull taut as it is pushed and pulled by your hands. With proper movement and force, an outer “skin” will form on the doug

Move quickly and confidently: Hesitation causes sticking. If the dough is sticking excessively, use a little more flour on your hands and work surface, and rely more on your bench knife.

Shaping a batard (oval)

For strong dough: Flip the preshaped round onto a floured surface. Fold the left side over to the middle, then the right side over and overlapping. Take the top and fold it down to start a small cylinder. Roll the dough down the rectangle, pushing with your thumbs at each revolution to tighten. Once rolled, the seam is on the bottom. Transfer seam-side up to a floured banneton.

For slack dough (stitching): Fold the bottom up to the bottom third. Fold left and right sides toward the middle. Fold the top flap down. Starting at the top, grab the top left and right corners, stretch each piece down and over the other to form an X — a stitch. Repeat 2-3 more times working down. Roll the cylinder gently from top to bottom. Transfer seam-side up.

Shaping a boule (round)

For strong dough: In each hand, take opposing points along the outside of the round. Gently tug these points up and over toward the middle. Repeat with two other opposing points. Continue 3-5 times. Flip so seams are down. Push and drag the entire mass on the work surface to tighten the exterior skin. Let rest seam-side down for a few minutes before transferring to the banneton seam-side up.

For slack dough: Fold the bottom up to the bottom third. Fold left and right sides toward the middle. Fold the top down over the entire round. Cup both hands around the far side of the dough with pinky fingers pressed against the work surface. Slowly drag toward your body — you'll feel the dough tighten. Rotate and repeat until uniformly round and evenly taut.

If your dough is really sticky

Add one or two more sets of stretches and folds during bulk fermentation.

For next time: Slightly reduce the hydration. Knead the dough longer. Add one or two more sets of stretches and folds during bulk. Make sure bulk fermentation is at the correct point — too short means shaggy and hard to handle; too long means sticky and degraded.